Nestled amidst the neon and noise of Times Square, ICHIRAN Ramen beckons with a serenity that stands apart from the bustling streets of its surroundings, enveloping diners in an atmosphere that feels worlds away.

Considered the best tonkotsu ramen in the world, ICHIRAN began in 1960 as a family-owned ramen stall in Fukuoka in Western Japan. Since then, President and CEO Manabu Yoshitomi has grown the business to 83 locations throughout Asia and three right here in New York City. Along with an original style and flavor of ramen, Yoshitomi created a unique dining experience. Diners sit in individual, partitioned cubicles that separate them from other guests so that customers focus only on the ramen that’s placed before them.

Recently, ICHIRAN invited me to a tasting at their Times Square location during regular business hours, where I embarked on a solo dining experience unlike any other. Knowing that ICHIRAN’s specialty is classic tonkotsu ramen—my personal favorite—I was intrigued by how they would combine their culinary delights with their unique concept of individual cubicles to provide a peaceful and delicious lunchtime retreat.

Electronic booth seating chart at ICHIRAN Times Square

Personalized Culinary Adventure

Walking through the doors of ICHIRAN, I instantly saw a blend of traditional Japanese atmosphere and modern technology: On the wall between noren adorning the doorways leading to the seating area sits a seating chart that indicates vacant booths with bright green lights. The solo cubicles, separated by wooden partitions, create an intimate space where I could enjoy my meal undisturbed. I'm not an introvert, but the prospect of indulging in my ramen without distractions was truly appealing. But the booths don’t mean you must dine alone; the partitions can be folded back to allow you to talk to your companions.

Individual dining booths at ICHIRAN Times Square

Ordering at ICHIRAN

ICHIRAN’s order sheet allowed me to tailor my ramen to my exact preferences, from the richness of the broth to the firmness of the noodles and the intensity of the spices.

The server, whose face was unseen due to tatami-like curtain, instructed me to place the order sheet facing the kitchen when ready to order. There is also a call button in the booth to press, just like restaurants in Japan.

I opted for light dashi seasoning and a light oil base, ensuring the broth wouldn’t be overpowering and steering away from the full richness commonly associated with traditional tonkotsu ramen. The Original Spicy Red Sauce is ICHIRAN’s secret recipe and claim to fame, but I am not a fan of spicy food, so I skipped it altogether.

I wanted my bowl of ramen to come with scallion and chashu sliced pork, but this presented a momentary dilemma. The "Recommended Toppings Set" includes scallion and chashu, along with soft-boiled egg, dried seaweed, and kikurage mushroom. I wondered, Should I select “without” scallion and chashu on the main portion of the menu if I ask for the Recommended Toppings Set? But if I select “without,” will my server think I don’t want scallion and chashu and leave both off my order? In the end I kept my original “with” choices as well as the toppings.

The first plate that arrived contained all the items in the recommended toppings set. When the server placed my steaming bowl of ramen in front of me, chashu and scallion already garnished the broth. My decision to choose the toppings set alongside the "with" options had essentially doubled my order. I embraced the unexpected abundance and had no trouble consuming everything.

Recommended Toppings Set with boiled egg (still in its shell)

The soft-boiled egg arrived in a separate bowl, shell intact, which was unexpected. As I peeled away the shell, I discovered a perfectly cooked egg, reminiscent of what one would expect at a renowned ramen restaurant, there was a lack of the distinct, vibrant orange hue often associated with eggs from Japan.

While the customizable menu offers beverages such as soda, Ramune, and Calpico, water is self-service, with water dispensers located throughout the dining area.

ICHIRAN’s matcha pudding, with its creamy and smooth texture and rich matcha flavor, was the perfect finale to a satisfying meal.

Authenticity

True to its reputation, ICHIRAN’s tonkotsu ramen did not disappoint. The rich, creamy pork bone broth, simmered to perfection for hours, exuded a delightful umami. The thin, chewy noodles complemented the broth, providing a satisfying texture with each slurp. I have great appreciation for the craftsmanship that goes into the Hakata-style broth and thin noodles, which are prepared every day in ICHIRAN’s Brooklyn factory and delivered to each location. If I were to change anything about my order, I would have selected a mild version of the red sauce, just to see what the extra flavor was like.

Embracing Solitude

ICHIRAN Ramen in Times Square NYC seamlessly combines flavors, an authentic Japanese experience, and a welcoming haven for solo diners. I enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere of the individual cubicles while relishing the classic tonkotsu ramen. Whether you're an introvert seeking solitude or an adventurous food enthusiast, ICHIRAN Ramen promises a unique dining experience that will transport you to a yatai in Fukuoka.

New York Locations

Times Square – 152 West 49th Street
Hours: Monday - Thursday 12:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m. Friday - Sunday Noon - 10:00 p.m.

Midtown – 132 West 31st Street
Hours: Monday – Thursday 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m. Friday – Sunday 11:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.

Brooklyn – 374 Johnson Avenue
Hours: Every day Noon – 9:00 p.m.

Melissa Avalon 8/4/22 Melissa Avalon 8/4/22

Thumbs Up Ramen Puts Bubbles in Your Broth

The Japanese word awa means “bubble” or “foam.” Sake fans are familiar with this term in reference to sparkling sake or sake that has champagne-like qualities, Hakkaisan’s AWA and Nanbu Bijin’s AWA Sparkling to name just two brands. Now ramen lovers can enjoy the same effect in their broth at Thumbs Up Ramen.

The Japanese word awa means “bubble” or “foam.” Sake fans are familiar with this term in reference to sparkling sake or sake that has champagne-like qualities, Hakkaisan’s AWA and Nanbu Bijin’s AWA Sparkling to name just two brands. Now ramen lovers can enjoy the same effect in their broth at Thumbs Up Ramen.

Thumbs Up Ramen is a new ramen shop that opened on June 1 in Fort Lee, New Jersey. Their signature style is Bubble (AWA) Ramen in which the broth is whisked to bring out the umami, creating a bubbly, creamy texture. According to the owners, it’s the only restaurant in the New York City/New Jersey area that serves this style of ramen.

Chef Naotaka Miyazawa of Thumbs Up Ramen serving a bowl of ramen — Chef Naotaka Miyazawa of Thumbs Up Ramen

A Brief History of Thumbs Up Ramen

Chef Naotaka Miyazawa teamed up with restaurateur Teruaki Ishiyama to open Thumbs Up Ramen in Fort Lee. Chef Miyazawa has been working with the beloved Japanese comfort food for more than 30 years. Starting at a ramen shop in Tokyo during high school, Chef Miyazawa moved on to Tsujita, a ramen restaurant known for its artisanal tsukemen, a type of ramen where cold noodles are dipped into a broth that’s in a separate bowl. When Tsujita expanded to the US, Chef Miyazawa developed the menu for its first restaurant in Los Angeles and eventually six other locations on the West Coast.

Ishiyama opened and managed the US outposts of Tendon Kaneko Hannosuke Nihombashi Honten, a famous tempura restaurant in Tokyo. He later opened his own restaurants, including Tokyo Shokudo, Tendon Tempura Carlos Jr., and B-Bee Crepe & Boba, in California and Illinois. A New Jersey resident for the last five years, Ishiyama thought that Fort Lee, with its proximity to Manhattan, would be the perfect place to open a ramen restaurant.

Chef whisking the broth at Thumbs Up Ramen — Whisking the broth at Thumbs Up Ramen

“Bubble” Ramen

Chef Miyazawa didn’t invent Bubble (AWA) Ramen, but he developed his own recipe after being inspired by several ramen shops that serve it in Japan. His chicken paitan broth takes 20 hours to make, slowly boiling chicken bones and eight different vegetables. At the time a customer places an order, he whisks the broth in a bowl before adding the toppings.

The result is a bowl of ramen that appeals to the senses: beautiful, fragrant bubbles that have a creamy but light texture and effervescent mouthfeel and work in harmony with fresh noodles made in Sun Noodle’s New Jersey factory.

My First AWA Ramen Experience

I was a guest at Thumbs Up Ramen in early July. (Full disclosure: I received a free meal from Thumbs Up Ramen in exchange for an honest review.) The space is bright and sunny, with seating for 50. Its open kitchen allows customers seated at the bench the chance to peek in and watch the whisking.

Chicken Paitan Bubble (AWA) Ramen at Thumbs Up Ramen

I had their signature dish, the chicken paitan. Yes, seeing the bubbles was delightful, but tasting it was even better. The velvety broth is brimming with umami, and the red onions and scallions add an extra oomph of flavor. The sous-vide char siu is thinly sliced and easy to chew, with a look and flavor that are reminiscent of prosciutto. There’s also a generous piece of chicken char siu, which soaked up the flavor of the broth. My favorite ramen topping is the boiled egg, and Thumbs Up’s had a deep orange yolk that was slightly gooey, which is the way I prefer it. All of this blended perfectly with the noodles.

Menu Options

Thumbs Up’s menu includes eight types of ramen: the aforementioned chicken paitan, chicken paitan tsukemen, chicken paitan miso, chicken paitan miso tsukemen, tomato mabo-noodle, vegetable, classic shoyu, and ramen you can customize with 15 different toppings. Rice bowls and appetizers such as chicken karaage, takoyaki, gyoza, and pork buns are also available.

Spacious Thumbs Up Ramen Dining Room — Spacious Thumbs Up Ramen

Worth the Trek to NJ?

I know what you’re thinking. If you live in New York City, where there is no shortage of exceptional ramen shops, why would you go to New Jersey for a bowl of ramen? Trust me, I thought the same thing. But it’s worth the trip, and not just for the bubbly broth. The entire bowl of ramen is tasty, and I’d love to go back to try Chef Miyazawa’s other styles. Plus, it’s not far from the Mitsuwa shopping complex in Edgewater. My recommendation is to enjoy a bowl of bubble ramen at Thumbs Up Ramen before a Mitsuwa/Daiso run.

How to Get There from NYC

Thumbs Up Ramen is located at 2024 Center Avenue, Suite G in Fort Lee, New Jersey. It’s open daily from 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Take bus #158 from Port Authority Bus Terminal to Main Street at Center Avenue, which is about a 40-minute ride. Walk north for two or three minutes. Click here for the schedules.

Take bus #182 from the George Washington Bridge Terminal in Manhattan, going over the bridge into Fort Lee. Tell the driver you want to get off at Main Street at Center Avenue, which is the stop after Main Street at Bergen Boulevard. The bus ride takes only ten minutes! Click here for the schedules.

For All Things Japanese in New York City, check out JapanCulture-NYC.com and follow @JapanCultureNYC on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook!

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