“Immersive Kawaii Experience” at Sushidelic
What pops into your mind when you think of a typical sushi restaurant? Serene and minimalist ambiance with a beautifully crafted hinoki wood bar at which a limited number of customers watch a highly trained sushi chef skillfully craft pieces of nigiri one by one.
Sushidelic, a new sushi restaurant that opened in SoHo on June 28, turns that idea on its head.
The brainchild of Japanese artist Sebastian Masuda, Sushidelic—a portmanteau of “sushi” and “psychedelic”— is the opposite of how anyone would perceive a sushi restaurant. And it’s delightful.
Multidisciplinary Talent
Masuda is an artist who exhibits worldwide. He’s the founder of 6%DOKIDOKI, a Harajuku staple of kawaii toys and Decora fashion and accessories since the mid-1990s. In 2011 he served as the art director of J-pop idol Kyary Pamyu Pamyu’s music video for her hit song “PonPonPon.” The King of Kawaii Culture has added another job title to his impressive resume: restaurateur.
Rather, Masuda is re-adding the job title. From 2015 until 2021, Masuda and DD Holdings, a Japanese company that specializes in managing themed restaurants, ran the Kawaii Monster Café in Tokyo. Although reviews about the food weren’t exactly complimentary, the Kawaii Monster Café was a tourist destination, especially for fans of Masuda’s art and Harajuku’s subculture.
If you’re familiar with Masuda, you know that vibrant colors, 1970s plastic toys, eclectic faux fur, and all things kawaii find their way out of his brain and into the world in a jumbled and yet somehow cohesive manner. In his mind, sushi looks like dessert, and dessert looks like sushi. His imaginings have come to life at Sushidelic in the forms of macaron sushi and chirashi parfaits. Masuda wants his guests to enjoy “an immersive kawaii experience,” and he has created the perfect vehicle with which to accomplish it.
When you enter Sushidelic, the first thing you’ll notice is that the decor isn’t anything you’d imagine from a sushi restaurant. The light fixtures are upside-down lipstick tubes. There are cloud-shaped mirrors on the ceiling. The giant heads of three cats hang above the bar, and they have names: Tipsy Cat, Lovely Cat, and Sexy Cat. The slowly rotate to reveal the pieces of sushi and a large pair of red lips on the back. To tie in the theme, the hostesses are called the “Delic Cats,” each wearing an outfit of Masuda’s design, matching the looks of Tipsy, Lovely, and Sexy.
The restaurant features a conveyor belt in the form of a long tongue emerging from a mouth-shaped opening in the kitchen wall. Sushidelic stands apart from average kaiten sushi spots where customers grab desired pieces of sushi off a rotating belt and have the color-coded plates tallied up at the end to calculate the bill. Instead, the tongue-belt carries Masuda’s artwork and beverages making their way from playful bartenders to customers sitting at the counter.
Unlike the kaiten sushi concept, Sushidelic’s offering is a six-course omakase dinner that Masuda calls “Pure Imagination.” A palette of six sauces accompanies the meal: black sesame, yuzu, mango and ginger, wasabi, spicy mayo, and a blueberry sauce to drizzle on dessert. It’s best to taste each piece of sushi first before adding any of the sauces, then experiment with the different flavors.
“Pure Imagination” Omakase Menu
Macaron Sushi
Macaron, tuna, sushi Rice
Hamachi
Hamachi, Ponzu, truffle oil, micro radish greens
Ape-Maki (Appetizer Rolls)
California roll with crab cake, salmon with salmon roe, eel tamago roll, and spicy tuna over crispy rice
Tempura
Shrimp, seasonal vegetable kakiage with matcha and yuzu salt
Chirashi Parfait
Mixed sashimi over pink sushi rice with marinated vegetables
EX-Sushi Desserts
Yuzu sushi over Rice Krispies dessert and sake cheesecake
Vegetarian menu is available on request.
I envisioned the creative plating, of course, but great food? Not really. Perhaps I was influenced by the negative reviews I read about Kawaii Monster Café, but I wasn’t expecting this meal to be as delicious as it was. I should’ve known better; private chef Abe Hiroki of EN Japanese Brasserie fame consulted with Masuda and his team of chefs to create dishes that are as flavorful as they are aesthetically pleasing. If I were to name one week link in the six courses, it would have to be the tempura. Although good, it had no Wow factor. My favorite is the chirashi parfait in both presentation and taste.
Beverages
Beer (including Japanese beers such as Echigo, Kizakura Kyoto, and Orion), wine, and sake (including Brooklyn Kura’s #14) are available from the bar, but the cocktails are the stars of the beverage show. I had the Lychee Berry Smash and the Matcha Tea-tini, which is a production in and of itself.
Sushidelic is indeed the immersive kawaii experience that Masuda wants us all to have. The art, style, and atmosphere are something you won’t see anywhere else. And at $85, it’s at a price point that can’t be beat in New York City.
So, the big question is this: Is Sushidelic sustainable? Will locals tire of the show and move on to the next big thing? Masuda’s fans in the Kawaii Community were out in full force at Sushidelic’s opening party, some traveling from as far away as Pennsylvania, but will they be regular customers? No one knows if the novelty of this novel concept will fade. For now, Masuda’s Kawaii Monster Café is all grown up and starting to live its best life in SoHo.
Details
Sushidelic is located at 177 Lafayette Street (between Broome and Grand Streets in SoHo)
Hours: Dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5:00 p.m. until 11:00 p.m. (last seating 10:00 p.m.)
Make reservations through Resy but act fast because all seats are booked through July 18 (at time of publishing).
Check out their website and follow them on Instagram.
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